We've been hearing about this place for YEARS. Why we never visited before last week beats us. But we finally decided to go and can't believe we waited so long to do so!
Located at 351 Calle Tapia, in Santurce, La Casita Blanca has been a classic in the Puerto Rico culinary scene for decades. It is as "Mom & Pops" as any place could ever hope to be. It has been around for more than 85 years, starting in 1922 when a lady would serve food from the same spot. In 1984 a Doña Aurora Ruíz named it La Casita Blanca and to this day it is doing the same thing: serving delicious fare with friendly service to those who seek it.
It is not necessarily the most accessible and parking friendly place in the neighborhood. To the point it might be hard for those who don't know Santurce well. But it's not impossible to reach. Hundreds go there every week so you can get there too. If you live here, find a spot somewhere on the streets as we Ricans know how to do so well. If you're visiting PR and staying in a hotel, take a cab, it's the easiest way. Take the marginal (service road) that runs along-side both sides the Baldorioty de Castro expressway and turn left onto Tapia St (if driving west towards SJ) or right (if driving east towards Carolina). Drive south on Tapia until you see La Casita Blanca on your left. However you decide to get there, just get there!
La Casita Blanca offers Puerto Rican culinary classics for lunch every day of the week, and dinner on the weekends. From guisados (stews), fricasé (fricassée), to Carne Frita (fried pork), chicken, fish, beef, and whatever else the criollo masterminds decide to cook that day.
Walking in you get the feeling you've reached abuela's house up on the mountains. Of course, assuming your abuela ever lived on a mountain. Even if she lived on a hill, or on a city avenue, it will do. The feeling's the same. The place is old, rustic, dark, and full of all kinds of antiques and kitschy, but cool, items that give you a sudden feeling of warmth and hospitality, transporting you to what Puerto Rico was like many decades ago. You might even start looking for the plastic covered couch. You know exactly what I speak of; the classic abuela couch covered in plastic so us nietos (grandkids) wouldn't mess it up. That couch!
We were told the front room was a sight to behold, with an old couch and furniture, books, and more. But on our visit the front room was practically empty. For a second we weren't sure if they were even open. Slight panic set in, but quickly a friendly woman asked, "¿Cuántos?" (How many?) Relief settled in and we said, "Cuatro, por favor." (Seems they're remodeling and doing some work on the house.)
The woman ushered us past the 2nd and 3rd rooms and we reached what can be called the back patio. On our left was a reja (iron fence) allowing some breeze to come through from the street. Tables lined the patio and we made ourselves comfortable at a 6-top (table for 6 - it was the smallest we could find). Surrounding us were about 5 groups of diners in the patio alone. On the way in we saw people eating in the balcón (balcony) and the room next to the patio, (the 3rd room in), was also packed with diners.
Out on the patio we enjoyed the curious table setting: a container of Goya Salt, flowers inside a soda can, a bottle of their homemade pique (hot sauce), and napkins, which were held up by an onion. Yes, an onion. Note to self: who needs paper weights and napkin holders when a veggie or piece of fruit can do the job just as well? The table next to us had a coconut holding down the napkins. One of the balcony tables had a green banana. And so on.
Above us, the light fixtures were made out of aluminum Palanganas and even a "wind chime" of sorts made out of pots and plates swung in the air. The place had character, no doubt about it.
Jesus, the owner, and one of the friendliest, warmest, most genuine person we've met in a restaurant, came to our table with a tray full of caldo de pollo (chicken soup - brothy soup), pan con ajo (garlic bread), and bacalaitos (codfish fritters). Our eyes bulging out of our heads, we recalled hearing about this "amuse bouche" of sorts from many people. Not quite the bite size pieces known as an amuse, who cares. These, dear readers, were all complimentary.
We attacked the hot caldo de pollo like vultures. It was delicious! It had started to rain at this point and we moved to an indoor table where the hot caldo warmed us to the bones! Great chicken flavor, salty, hot, with hints of chicken and recao filling our noses. The caldo hit the spot. The pan con ajo inside the paper-towel-lined-brown-bag was crispy, buttery (margarine?), and yummy And the bacalaitos? ¡Los bacalaitos! Piping HOT! Crisp! Bacalao flavor all over! Some of us were calling for Jesus, and we weren't referring to the owner. Dare we admit we might have had 2 or 3 or 4 plates of the bacalaitos. Nah, just kidding. Or are we?
Our server returned to the table and brought with her the chalkboard menu. Written out were the plates available for the day. One item, #6, was erased and we wondered what it had been. Must've been good given they were out of it. Darn the lucky bastards who ate it all! Had it been Chicharrones de Pollo (fried chicken chunks)? Bistec Encebollao (onioned steak)? Empanada (breaded steak)? We would never know.
Our server took our drink order - Maviada - a drink made out of mavi and maybe fruit juices or fruit punch- and left us to ponder the menu. (Not sure of the Maviada spelling.)
Prices ranged from $9.75 for the Picadillo Criollo (ground beef) or the Higado Guisado (stewed liver) to the $13.95 Mero Encebollao (grouper with cooked onions); most of them fell in the $12 range. One set of eyes zoned in on the Patitas Garbanzos (pigs feet & chickpeas), while others murmured about the Carne Frita, (fried pork chunks). Questions arose with regards to the Mero Encebollado and the Fricasé de Ternera.
Decisions. Decisions. Decisions. What the heck was written on #6?!?!
We ended up ordering 2 orders of Carne Frita ($11.75), 1 order of the Pollo al Caldero (chicken cooked in a pot) ($11.25), and 1 order of Patitas Garbanzos ($11.25). Each comes accompanied by arroz con habichuelas or tostones (fried green plantains). Or both in our case. After ordering another round of Maviada we relaxed and chatted away. Oh, and we ate some more bacalaitos.
We didn't even notice how long it took for the food to arrive. The appetizers had calmed the beasts within and allowed the kitchen time to prepare the food while we talked and drank. Maybe 10 minutes passed? 20? Who cared. We were truly enjoying ourselves! At this 2nd table the table centerpieces/arrangements included a can of Betis Olive Oil and a humongous bottle of Vinaigrette. Adding to the charm were the paper-towel rolled utensils. moncheoPR loves themselves some paper towels.
The food arrived.
The patitas con garbanzos looked like heaven in a caldero. Just by looking at them we KNEW they were going to be divine. The thickened, viscous, golden reddish sauce, the moist and gooey pork meat, the buttery soft garbanzos oozing with the patitas sauce inside when bitten, garlic, recao, and so on. These were as good as abuela's. I MEAN ALMOST! Mala mia abuela. Never as good as yours. (But darn close!)
The carne frita was golden and moist. The pollo al caldero looked and tasted juicy. Everything had great flavor, great temperature, and was well seasoned. The tostones were golden crisp. The rice and beans complimented the meats and filled us up.
But the patitas. The patitas kicked ass. They were...yes... they were bangin'! No doubt. Question was: would we grab them with our fingers and suck the porky goodness at the end? You will never know and we will never tell!
The food was truly great. Tasty, well-seasoned, at proper temperature, fresh, and filling. Great portions for the $12. We felt like sapos conchos (big fat toads) at the end. But we were not done. Tembleque made its way to our table. Yum! Classic Puerto Rican cornstarch-thickened, coconut dessert, consisting of coconut milk, constarch, sugar, and cinnamon. Like a stovetop coconut pudding. "Coconutty" and sweet, it was a great way to close the meal.
At the end of our meal, when everything is about to end, Jesus shows up at our table with 4 shots of Chichaíto, traditionally an anise and rum mix, with 3 coffee beans symbolizing love, health, and money. Bottoms up as Jesus continued to wish us loads of love, wealth, and health! Oh, and this was complimentary again!
The check came to $86.50 including tax and $30 for drinks. The four of us ended up paying $26-27 each to include a 20% tip. Not bad for lots of good food, dessert, and lots of drinks. Oh, and yeah, for some Bangin' customer service as well!
La Casita Blanca is definitely a spot we recommend. The service was PHENOMENAL. And by phenomenal we mean BANGIN'. Jesus and his crew can show many servers out there that excellent customer service isn't hard. You just have to pay attention and care. Both of which Jesus did very well.
The food was great. Sooo much better than many other "traditional Puerto Rican" restaurants in the area. We'd rather eat at La Casita Blanca than many places in San Juan because they provided consistency and genuine care and love for their work. The ambiance was fun, innovative in its own antique way, and relaxed. This place is definitely a must.
¡Buen provecho!
Click here to view all the pictures from La Casita Blanca.
Rating: GREAT
La Casita Blanca (Puerto Rican)
- Neighborhood: Santurce
- Address: 351 Calle Tapia, San Juan, PR 00912
- Phone: 787.726.5501
- Hours: M-W 11:30am-4pm, Thur 11:30am-6pm, Fri-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun 11:30am-5pm
- Payment: Cash, ATH/ATM, Major CC
- Parking: Around the street. Good luck!
Ah, La Casita Blanca. Tremendo sitio. Ya me dio nostalgia otra vez.
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